Comstock Dusts Off the Oysters and Champagne for a Barbary Coast Holiday

We're not exactly sure what these gents in Chinatown are up to, but it doesn't look good...
​What was it like to live in San Francisco 100 years ago? Apart from the odd lingering quake rubble ― unless you happened to be black, or brown, or a woman, or wanted to keep house with somebody of your own chromosomal makeup ― pretty nice. Probably quite nice at Christmas (assuming you were Christian), with roast geese, spiced cakes, bottles of port, and plenty of fat, crackly cigars.

You can get a taste of the good life circa Christmas 1910 next week at Comstock Saloon, when folks from Drake's Bay will be on hand to shuck oysters, guys from Jacquesson et Fils to pour Champagne, and house chef Carlo Espinas will lay down a four-course, $75 oyster menu, the kind Victorian gentlemen used to call "Lucullan." That includes something named "oysters Victor Hugo," culled from the Hotel St. Francis Cook Book (date-stamped Sep. 23, 1910), "Hangtown salad" (escarole and salt pork with oyster vinaigrette), oyster-stuffed guinea hen, and Epoisses with pickled strawberries.

Tweeds and round-tipped collars are optional, but if you're a gay guy, we strongly suggest holding your boyfriend's hand ― prominently ― for at least part of the meal. Call it justice delayed.

Champagne, Oysters, and Booty
When: Tue., Dec. 14, 6 p.m.
Where: Comstock Saloon, 155 Columbus (at Pacific)
Cost: $75 (not including tax and tips)
Reservations: Call Aimee Santos, 617-0071, or e-mail; you'll need to give a credit card number

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