Ryan Scott's 3-Sum Eats Debuts at Off the Grid
|3-Sum's short-rib sandwich, $9.|
Like Hapa SF and the Taco Guys, 3-Sum Eats applies decades of formal kitchen training to simple, grab-and-eat food ― salads, soups, sandwiches, and cupcakes. (You can read a sample menu on his website). I picked up a short-rib sandwich with upland cress, caramelized shallot relish, and melted fontina ($9). The shallots defined the sandwich ― sweet and fragrant in the same measure, their flavor amplified with horseradish and a shower of fried shallots. They moistened up the shredded beef and heralded the bite of the cress.
|Fried gnocchi with "dirty ranch" sauce.|
The faux-tots are a work in progress: a great idea, but still a little dense and chewy for our tastes. Overall, though, I thought Scott's take on food-truck Americana is smartly done ― in step with what's appearing at bistros, and upscaled just enough to give good ingredients their due.
3-Sum Eats: 3-sumeats.com; Twitter: @3sumeats.