Amarena Brings Back the Free Spread ― But Only on Thursday

Yelp

On Russian Hill, a glorious once-a-week throwback.

The hours: Thu. 6-9:30 p.m.

The deals: Weekly free buffet of Italian specialties

The digs: Tiny hideaway on a quiet corner of Russian Hill feels like a homey Tuscan hangout with its sponged peach walls, hardwood floors, standup bar and well-stocked wine racks. The glam locals and Eurotrash party music add a hint of the glitterati.

The verdict: Once upon a time San Francisco saloons routinely served elaborate free buffets in the post-work hours, but nowadays the complimentary spreads are few and far between and not particularly elaborate. Amarena's stipend-free feed is a marvelous throwback: spring greens in a light vinaigrette; Arborio studded with zucchini, carrots, and mozzarella; foccacia squares topped with melted cheese; penne in a rich tomato sauce; a delectable green lasagna layered with creamy pesto ― all of it hearty and delicious. In addition to seven reds, five whites, and two sparklers at $7-$15 per glass, the bar offers Peroni at $7 per bottle and a yummy sangria for $9 per serving. This is a cheerful, cozy place for a sip, a schmooze, and lots of good food.

Overall grade: A