This Week's Review: Ramen Ramen Ramen
|Saiwaii's tonkotsu ramen.|
I don't know that S.F. will ever rival San Jose for the diversity and quality of our ramen shops, but when this city is late to a trend, we catch up quickly. San Francisco is insular and picky enough that when we grab onto something that interests us ― cocktails, coffee, and, duh, pizza come to mind ― we hammer away at it until we bring the quality up to our exacting standards. I'm hoping that ramen is one of those trends.
Most times, when I finish a roundup review I have to fight off cravings for the thing I just overconsumed (the week after last spring's hot dog piece was brutal). This week, I'm so porked out ― a dark place I thought my soul would never reach ― I've been craving the lighter ramen styles. I went back to Sawaii on the night I was writing this piece, for instance, and had a fine shio ramen, and I'll be interested to try the nonconventional broths Hapa Ramen is said to be working on (Duck? Yeah, duck). And it's about time for Ken Ken Ramen, the popup restaurant whose shoyu and miso broths were beginning to catch a buzz before it lost its space, to find a new host. Hop to it, guys.