The Summit's 28 Hour Short Rib Sandwich
Desi Danganan's week-old third place all-day hangout on Valencia aims to be, well, whatever you want it to be: morning coffee house, daytime port for essential FB updates, dinner place, dessert salon. The crowd at 1:15 p.m. yesterday skewed Mission professional, guy heavy, all cardigans and plastic rims, baldness mitigated by close cuts and flaring sideburns.
Walk to the loo, and you can sense Danganan's dream of an essential neighborhood hub (the not-yet-open game room, the private dining/conference room used as kitchen storage spillover). And there's i/o ventures, the tech-business consultants who share the loft here, the ultimate geeky flatmates. There's an overarching impression of important work being negotiated on laptops somewhere in the building, fueled by Blue Bottle drips and fed, of course, by Eddie Lau's cooking.
Lau's "28 hour" short rib sandwich ($8.50) kept its meat to a minimum, unselfconsciously fatty cubes with a springy texture and meaty breath. Two slices of yellow-marbled, green-seeded tomatoes dominated the sandwich, but not as much as Jared Nash's house-baked roll (tagged "weck"), thick and densely textured as a good bialy. We got the roasted beet salad ($7), too, baby ones, with cubes of ricotta salata and marinated green beans in pluot vinaigrette that walked a sweet-tart line. The geeks and style freaks could do worse than café food like this, though, a week in, neither dish would make us log off and pay full attention to the plate. Maybe that's the point.
John Birdsall Roasted beet salad with ricotta salata and green beans in pluot vinaigrette, $7.
The Summit: 780 Valencia (at 19th St.), 861-5330.