Kitchenette's Short Rib Sandwich

Categories: Eat This

John Birdsall
Sauerbraten-style short rib sandwich with braised cabbage, bronze fennel, and apple butter, $8.50.
Thursday, October 7, 2010

A short rib sandwich minitrend is gripping the city, San Francisco! Maybe nobody's done it quite so good lately as Kitchenette. Off the loading dock Monday we scored one that took inspiration from sauerbraten. Really, though, it made us think of pot roast. Really good pot roast, the kind where the meat fibers hold together by the flimsiest web of delicate connective tissue, and the flavor's in danger of having leached into whatever liquid the meat braised in, only with just enough left to taste like beef.

Far as we could tell, the sauer part kept to the heap of buttery melted cabbage and bronze fennel, which tasted like it'd been goosed with a good slug of good vinegar. We didn't even notice the apple butter that must've been smeared on the sandwich's Acme baguette, except as a vague sweetness we thought, as we ate, that comes from general virtuousness alone. Shows you what we know.

Kitchenette: 958 Illinois (at 20th St.).

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958 Illinois, San Francisco, CA

Category: Restaurant

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