Buckwheat Crêpe from Crêperie Saint Germain
You take a bite of the Number 3 (cheese, ham, and egg, $6.95) and your teeth squeak against the thickish slice of deli ham swathed in a double-fold of spongy-soft buckwheat crêpe. Crêperie Saint Germain's third location occupies a corner of the gray-marble conservatory in the Citigroup Center Downtown, two windows like bank cashier stations looking out over the spindly palms and scattered tables of the atrium.
The savory crepes here are take inspiration from the sandwich, with fillings like smoked turkey, avocado, and bacon. They take lunch meat seriously, these crepes, but there's something to be said even for lunch meat when it's folded into a warm, stretchy wrapper rather than parceled out between slices of sourdough. And the crêpes themselves have the nice, gravelly taste of buckwheat, slightly sweet, and with edges that come off the griddle crisp. Pony up for a dessert crêpe and you'll have to force amnesia for the buttery, sugar-crinkly specimens of the Paris streets. The Number 23 here, sugar and butter ($4.50), contains a slurry of smoky-tasting dark brown sugar and butter so thick you could set tile with it.
Crêperie Saint Germain: In Citigroup Center, One Sansome (at Sutter), 217-7056.