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| Jonathan Kauffman |
| Caramelized pineapple soda, $2.49. |
The beef burgers at
Roam Artisan Burgers are just fine ― in terms of thickness and quality, the median between In-N-Out and your average $12 bistro burger, with bonus points for grass-feddiness ― but the caramelized pineapple soda is fantastic: a drumroll of bubbles, the reverberating clang of pineapple, brush-taps of caramel and salt. Unlike Roam's other freshly made sodas (prickly pear, Meyer lemon), the pineapple soda contains no agave syrup to sweeten it up ― it's just carbonated water and caramelized pineapple puree from Napa's
Perfect Puree. The combination of the drink's demure sweetness, bright acidity, and salt all bring to mind Vietnamese soda lemon, or a very dry whiskey sour.
Roam Artisan Burgers: 1785 Union (at Octavia), 440-7626.
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