HRD Coffee Shop's Kimchi Burrito

Categories: Eat This

John Birdsall
Burrito with kimchi fried rice, pork, and kiwi salsa, $5.75.
Thursday, September 9, 2010

John Birdsall
​The guy shitting in Taber Alley breaks his concentration long enough to give you the death gaze, like, Dude, you do not want to be here. He's right. Meanwhile, the South Park workers lined up just around the corner at HRD Coffee Shop seem just as intent on lunch. Owners David Yeung and Jojo Banks serve up San Francisco's version of white-board diner food ― barbecue pork with scrambled egg over rice, yellow curry chicken, spicy tofu stir-fry ― but it's when the cooks stray from the canon that HRD kills.

The Mongolian cheesesteak (hoisin beef and green pepper stir-fry, punctuated with globs of Provolone) might be for the ravenous alone, but the kimchi burrito is good enough to seduce the skeptical. It's a fat roll stuffed with bits of incandescent pork and kimchi fried rice, all of it glowing with the capsicum sweetness of kochu chang, Korean spicy bean paste. Sour cream, too. Oh, and celadon-colored cubes of kiwi that totally work here, in the bolt-down-stool ambience of ancient chop-suey joints, updated for a generation that likes lunch foil-wrapped.

HRD Coffee Shop: 521A Third St. (at Taber), 543-2355.

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