Zero Zero's Panouzzo
Its origins in Gragnano, a city just outside Naples, shouldn't fool you. The panouzzo at Bruce Hill's Zero Zero ― which began serving lunch this week ― is, at heart, a hoagie. For the roll, the cooks flatten the house pizza dough into a kind of deflated pigskin and bake it off in the wood oven. Later, it's split and layered it with the kinds of meats and cheeses unlikely to ever find their way to the sub shop: soppressata Napoletana from New York's Salumeria Biellese, Rovagnati mortadella and prosciutto cotto, Bellwether Crescenza, and Italian provolone. A turn on the flattop leaves the cheeses semi-molten; house-made aioli and cherry pepper relish turn the thing into a garlic-breathing office hazard. And unless you spent the morning harvesting a grape vineyard, it's unlikely you'll be able to finish a panouzzo all by yourself. But then, when's the last time you polished off a foot-long hoagie?
Zero Zero: 826 Folsom (at Fourth St.), 348-8800.