Tokyo Go-Go: Daily Deals and a Velvet-Rope Vibe
The hours: Mon.-Sat., 5:30-7 p.m.; Sun., 5-6:30 p.m.
The deals: Hand rolls, pints, and hot sake, $3.50; well drinks, $4; fancy cocktails, $5
The digs: Self-consciously hip sushi joint in violet, lime, and cranberry with bamboo accents, esoteric burnt-wood objets d'art, dozens of hanging globes, and an ever-popular 12-stool bar. The throbbing lounge music, indirect lighting, and glam waitstaff give the place a proto-L.A., velvet-rope vibe.
The verdict: Tokyo Go-Go's top-shelf hand rolls are rich, creamy, inventive, and delectable, and at $3.50 a pop are worth braving the establishment's Hills ambience and braying clientele. Try the albacore poke with wakame and shichimi, or the Sunshine roll, hamachi with cilantro, wasabi tobiko, and a delicate quail egg. To wash down the snackage there are pints of Kirin, Fat Tire, and Pilsner Urquell, or carafes of hot sake for $3, as well as $4 wells and convoluted yet tasty $5 house cocktails. Just don't try jotting down notes from the menu posted in the window; a suit might emerge from the thrumming recesses and threaten you with arrest and confinement.
Overall grade: B