The Daily Sandwich at Goody Goodie
This week, a month after throwing open the golden shutters on her retail bakery window on Folsom, Goody Goodie's Remi Hayashi started hawking sandwiches. A single daily specimen, really, though for the first two days she's rung small changes on a single theme. Yesterday, the organizing principle was summer fruit: an Acme sweet roll split, spread with Bellwether Crescenza, and stuffed with split cherries shiny with olive oil, bristling with tongue-like tarragon leaves. The second option: Concord grapes subbed for cherries, and minus the herb.
John Birdsall Goody Goodie's walk-up window on Folsom.
The cherries won ― we couldn't quite get over the grapes' buckshot seediness. And anyway, the cherries had a kind of dark-rose lushness that turned volatile under the influence of the olive oil's fruit and the tarragon's bite. And though it's arguable whether the same ingredients wouldn't have been better on a plate, without the roll, there's no denying that Hayashi brings a pastry chef's sense of drama to the sandwich.
What's not arguable: You can't leave Goody Goodie without way more cookies than you tell yourself you're allowed. Hayashi makes the best chocolate chip cookies we've met in San Francisco, in four or five variations that ― okay, we admit it ― are hard to differentiate. You can't go wrong with the chocolate-packed basic, the Goody Goodie, which crams so many E. Guittard cocoa percentages into a single batch it'd take John Nash a whole DVD scene to process. Meanwhile, scarfing half a dozen at your desk is shockingly simple.
John Birdsall The Goody Goodie is in there somewhere.
Goody Goodie Cream and Sugar: 1246 Folsom (at Eighth St.); 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Weds.-Sat.