Cochon Volant, Huarache Loco: Street Food Scores at World Cup Final in Civic Center

Rob Larman

Mobile BBQ maker Cochon Volant has appeared twice before at World Cup parties in Civic Center.

Among them: El Huarache Loco ― owner Veronica Salazar says she'll be bringing her usual offerings of gorditas and huaraches.

Sunday also brings a chance to taste the barbecued pork sandwich from new vendor Cochon Volant ("Flying Pig"). Chef-owner Rob Larman lives in Sonoma, where, for 10 years he presided over Rob's Rib Shack. A couple of weeks ago, Larman made his S.F. debut at a Rec and Park event in Golden Gate Park, where he unveiled his custom-built smoker, sexed up by Burning Man artist Byran Tedrick, who attached a metal swine in the act of levitating.

Larman smokes over oak and almond, first brining his pork shoulders for two and a half days in the kind of brine the French use for petit salé. The meat's cubed, piled onto potato rolls from Napa's ABC bakery, served with radish slaw and pickled onions.

Someone who won't be feeding Civic Center's FIFA-phile Sunday is Copper Top Ovens. The Alemany pizza regular was planning to show, but, says owner Tom Gerstel, he's opted out, preferring to do his regular Sunday farmers' market gig at Jack London Square instead. Prior Civic Center Cup events yielded lackluster sales, Gerstel says. "We were ready to go with a really great breakfast pizza, but then everybody watched the game and just went back home or on to the office." Wonder if Gerstel's experience would've been different had Italy advanced?

World Cup Soccer Live at Civic Center
When: Sun., July 11, 11:15 a.m.
Where: Civic Center Plaza