What to Have for Lunch: Fried Chicken Po'boy from Little Skillet
Ever since opening manager Christian Cisclé split Little Skillet February, the cooking at Farmer Brown's takeaway satellite has seemed to move closer to the Tenderloin mother ship. When it opened a little more than a year ago, Little Skillet racked a thick stack of good press, including Matthew Stafford's July 2009 SF Weekly review. But after the changes of the past four months, is Little Skillet still good? Judging from a recent fried chicken po'boy ― a frequent special that appears destined for a slot on the regular menu ― the Skillet has gotten better in some ways, and slipped in others. The boneless fingers fried fingers in the po'boy were craggy with crunchy coating, with a mustard-seed flecked slaw that tasted like it'd been poached from grandma's root cellar, while the accompanying potato chips ― always the fall-down detail of the old Skillet ― were thinner and crisper than ever. But the Panorma roll? Hoagie-shop disappointing. Shriveled, bland, and bready, it was nowhere near as plush as the Acme torpedoes of Skillet po'boys past. Oh well.
Little Skillet 330 Ritch (at Townsend), 777-2777.