Sure, You Go to Cafe Flore to Cruise Guys. The Mac and Cheese Is Almost as Tasty

Trevor Adams

Delicious ― but unless you're a hunky bear, don't expect to finish it.

​Clones, leathermen, bears: The Castro's long been known as a neighborhood of self-expression, not culinary revelation. That began to change last year, when a rash of new bars and eateries nudged the LGBT mecca from moldering gay ghetto to emerging gourmet ghetto. How to navigate the ultimate gayborhood's new edible landscape? From now until Pride weekend ― June 26-27 ― we'll be your guide through the Castro's newest hot spots and oldest favorites. Lesbian, gay, trans, questioning, or merely wondering where to eat: SFoodie will hook you up. ―John Birdsall

Café Flore is the gateway to the Castro, a staple of San Francisco queer culture, and an essential hangout for this and all Prides. Since the days of Harvey Milk, local queer history has deep roots in this quaint corner of Upper Market.

We've all been to Café Flore to meet a friend for a quick cup of joe or a cocktail ― it's the ultimate in convenient spots ― but what about the food? Recently, we found ourselves hopping from the bar (killer well drinks, and espresso to boot), then stumbled over to the self-serve food counter for some grub. Number marker in hand, we cruised the heated outdoor patio, eyes jumping from twink to gym bunny in search of a free table.

​The Flore's delicate shell-pasta mac and cheese ($6.50) came pristinely gratinéd, New York white cheddar complemented by smoky applewood bacon ($2.25 extra). The cream sauce wasn't broken (a nice change from the versions we've scoped at other Castro dives), and the portion was big ― we would have had to be hungry hairy bear to finish the whole bowl. Served with a cloudy crisp Hoegaarden, the whole experience was a pleasant surprise, and reasonably priced ― if only for the best people-watching in the Castro.

Café Flore 2298 Market (at Noe), 621-8579.