Congee with Pork and Preserved Egg at Hing Lung

Categories: SFoodie's 92
hingcongee.jpg
Tamara Palmer
Congee goes with doughnuts like white on rice.

As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

Number 2: Congee with Pork and Preserved Egg at Hing Lung

Right now, the world of higher-end food is taken with the romance of the single-subject restaurant. All up and down the West Coast, foodistas are loving up pizza places, taco trucks, adobo carts. In Portland, where SFoodie traveled this weekend, the food cart catching the most buzz specializes in oatmeal.

HingLung_Sign.jpg
Oatmeal? we snickered, and then we remembered how much we love Hing Lung, a Chinatown stalwart with a hundred items on its menu but one dish on every table: congee, or rice porridge. While the congee comes with everything from fish slices to pork blood, we're partial to the simple pork and preserved egg. When the bowl arrives, it smells only of cooked white rice ― a bland smell, a morning smell. Each scoop of the spoon coats it in the thick, grain-flecked porridge. But the congee tastes nowhere as bland as its appearance (its depth helped along, perhaps, with a little MSG), and underneath the broth, rice, and occasional flicker of green onion floats up a whisper of five-spice powder.

A few more spoonfuls reveals the source of the seasoning: the pork chunks at the bottom of bowl, which fall apart into salty, fragrant threads as we stir ― much better than the bland ground pork many other places use. Occasionally, the spoon also dredges up a chunk of preserved egg, looking like a translucent wedge of obsidian, which we love for its glassy-chewy texture and its subsonic funk.

We love swabbing rounds of the light, just-fried you tiao (crullers) through the congee, then dabbing on a few drops of chile paste. Is the meal white on white, starch on starch? Without a doubt. But it's one we never tire of.

Hing Lung 674 Broadway (at Stockton), 398-8838.

Hungry for more? Click on the links in our countdown so far:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson

No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 88: Spit-Roasted Porchetta Sandwich from Il Cane Rosso
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango
No. 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile
No. 58: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung
No. 57: John Campbell's Scones from Lovejoy's Tea Room
No. 56: Prahok from Angkor Borei
No. 55: The Garden-Fresh Pie from Pizzetta 211
No. 54: Pata Negra Ham from Contigo
No. 53: Stone Bowl Bibimbap at Han Il Kwan
No. 52: Green Papaya Salad from Green Papaya Deli
No. 51: Egg Puffs from Shanghai Dumpling King
No. 50: Cactus Tortillas from La Palma
No 49: Thai Barbecue Chicken from Manivanh
No. 48: Salt and Pepper Crab from R&G Lounge
No. 47: Aztec Chocolate Cupcakes from Mission Minis
No. 46: Octopus Tostada from Mariscos La Costa
No. 45: Pan con Chicharron from El Perol
No. 44: Burmese Chicken-Noodle Soup at Yamo
No. 43: Roast Duck from Cheung Hing
No. 42: Rotisserie Bird from Goood Frickin' Chicken
No. 41: Franklin's Teleme Cheese
No. 40: Pho Dac Biet from Turtle Tower
No. 39: Sea Salted Dark Chocolate Caramels from Hooker's
No. 38: Dottie's Famous Pancakes from Dottie's True Blue Cafe
No. 37: XXX Chocolate Cake from Baker and Banker
No. 36: Carnitas Burrito from La Taqueria
No. 35: Little Fried Fish from Nopa
No. 34: Marlowe's Burger
No. 33: Crispy Pata from Patio Filipino
No. 32: Jam Thumbprints from Piccino Coffee Bar
No. 31: Slow-Cooked Egg from Commis
No. 30: Pulled Lamb Sandwich from Wexler's
No. 29: Cornmeal-Cherry-Rosemary Doughnut from Dynamo
No. 28: The Rising Sun from 15 Romolo
No. 27: The Cholle Bhature from Vik's Chaat Corner
No. 26: Plant Burger from The Plant Café Organic
No. 25: Stuffed Pasta from Flour + Water
No. 24: Potato Vareniki from Katia's Russian Tea Room
No. 23: Tokyo Ramen from Suzu Noodle House
No. 22: Margherita Pizza from Tony's Pizza Napoletana
No. 21: PB&J from Mission Street Food
No. 20: Sam's Sundae from Bi-Rite Creamery
No. 19: Timballo di Maccheroni from Quince
No. 18: New Orleans Iced Coffee from Blue Bottle
No. 17: Xiao Long Bao at Yank Sing
No. 16: Tacos from Taqueria Vallarta
No. 15: Caribeño Cocktail at Smuggler's Cove
No. 14: House-Cured Anchovies at Zuni Cafe
No. 13: Rabbit Pot Pie from Mission Beach Cafe
No. 12: Cappuccino It's-It
No. 11: Death & Taxes from Moonlight Brewing
No. 10: Pork Belly from The Alembic
No. 9: Saltado de Pollo from Mi Lindo Peru
No. 8: Acme's Pain au Levain
No. 7: Salumi Platter from Barbacco and Perbacco
No. 6: Pulled Pork Sandwich from Pal's Takeaway
No. 5: Paper Masala Dosa from Udupi Palace
No. 4: Zilla-Style Hot Dog from 4505 Meats
No. 3: Fruit Noshing at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie. Contact John Birdsall at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com.


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Hing Lung - CLOSED

674 Broadway, San Francisco, CA

Category: Restaurant

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