What to Have for Lunch Today: Croque Monsieur at Passion Café
There's something about the lacquer sheen of urban rehab here, the scuffed-up scene on Stevenson Alley glimpsed through lace-edged curtains, the prevalence of meaty tattooed guys who'd fit right in at an Eagle beer bust (except for the French accents, maybe), and a menu replicating tourist restaurants near Paris train stations that makes Passion Café unlike any other place in the city. The croque monsieur fits right in: slabby brioche, milk-white Mornay sauce, pink bistro ham, and enough melted Swiss to blanket Haute-Savoie. Enormous hunks of green bell pepper on the accompanying heap of a salad make it, too, unlike any other in San Francisco.
Passion Café 28 Sixth St. (at Stevenson), 437-9730