Flour + Water's Stuffed Pasta

John Birdsall

Agnolotti with pea shoots and favas in Meyer lemon butter sauce.

Number 25: Stuffed Pasta from Flour + Water

The house-made flat pastas are delicious, but there's something about the less-than-perfect filled shapes cappelletti and agnolotti that seem keenly apt at Flour + Water, a restaurant that aspires to the same quavering mix of polish and rust. With agnolotti ― "priests' hats," a version of ravioli from Piemonte ― chef Thomas McNaughton presides over rectangular parcels whose back flaps twist, like Möbius strips, filled with house-made ricotta. Expect a seasonally morphing palette of garnishes ― with the faintly triangular, button-like cappelletti ("little hats"), too ― from summer's corn and Crescenza to the pea shoots and young favas of last night's agnolotti, in a gently viscous butter sauce charged with Meyer lemon.

Flour + Water 2401 Harrison (at 20th St.), 826-7000

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