What to Have for Lunch Today: Tacos San Buena's Chicken Torta

J. Birdsall

Wrinkly as Grampa Simpson.

​Weds., March 31, 2010

J. Birdsall

​Esquivel Santana's San Buena truck dishes out decent tacos to a FiDi audience starved for something streetier than the area's prevailing café fare. Order a taco ($2) filled with cabeza (beef cheeks and other head parts) and you get a generous pile of nicely gelatinous hunks, doused (if you order it picante) with smooth-textured, mouth spanking chipotle salsa. But what the blue-windowed San Buena truck does best are tortas (regular, $5.50), like the one with chicken we scarfed yesterday. Its butter-doused and grill-toasted roll was wrinkly and shriveled like Abe Simpson, filled with gnarled hunks of meat both moist and elastic, mixed up with shredded iceberg and soft, mashy pico de gallo. Awesome.

Tacos San Buena Parked weekdays on Sansome (at Bush)