Cactus Tortillas from La Palma

J. Birdsall

The subtly green corn tortillas contain puréed cactus paddles.

Number 50: Cactus Tortillas from La Palma

From egg white omelets to Sizzlean, foods jiggered to have the healthy worked in end up diminished, their animating force somehow killed right along with the calories. One exception: The subtly green, arguably better-for-you tortillas de nopales at La Palma Mexicatessen. Owner Paco Castaño says the tortillas ― made from corn masa mixed with a measure of pureed cactus paddle ― started showing up in Mexico a few years ago (as far as Castaño knows, La Palma is the first company in the U.S. to duplicate them). The reason? Whatever proportion of masa the nopalito mash takes up means less calorie-dense carbs, plus cactus is a fine source of vitamin C and fiber. Frankly, we don't give a damn. It's the taste we love, green and lush with an edge of swampy, the smell a mix of lawn clippings and green bell pepper. The texture is different, too, firmer than pure-corn tortillas. Indeed, Chilango chef Roberto Aguiar Cruz tells us it's the texture he likes (stiffer, more rustic), even after frying, though the green fades. Not, however, the magic.

La Palma Mexicatessen 2884 24th St. (at Florida), 647-1500

Craving more? Check out these previous links to our countdown:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango
No. 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile
No. 58: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung
No. 57: John Campbell's Scones from Lovejoy's Tea Room