Salt and Pepper Crab from R&G Lounge

M. Ladd

Let it cool slightly before going in for the kill.

Number 48: Salt and Pepper Crab from R&G Lounge

Our days slinging crab at a Fisherman's Wharf eatery left us with memories of glazed-eyed tourists unsure how to approach a whole cooked Dungeness. Granted, it can be a lot of work to crack a crustacean and pick out its meat, for an arguably smallish haul of bits and morsels. Overall, the best advice for eating a whole crab in public is to leave all shyness at the door. It's a messy procedure you just have to throw yourself into. There's no better place to do that than in a classic Cantonese seafood restaurant.

At R&G Lounge in Chinatown, the dish the menu calls "live battered crab deep-fried and sprinkled with salt & pepper" ― better known as salt and pepper crab ― is one of the most popular. At $38 a pop (give or take, depending on the market), it requires a deep pocketbook, plus the luxury of time (allow at least an hour). Alive in the tank when you walked in the place, the crab arrives at your table too hot to touch. The R&G staff recommends eating off the fried batter first before tackling the creature underneath, but you'll need to let it cool a bit first. The biggest chunks of claw meat are worth really digging for, since they allow full bites of sweet, succulent crab. You just might hear murmurs of "lucky you!" from a neighboring table.

R&G Lounge 631 Kearny Street (at Commercial), 982-7877

Craving more? Check out these previous links to our countdown:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango
No. 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile
No. 58: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung
No. 57: John Campbell's Scones from Lovejoy's Tea Room