The Noe Valley Pizza Joint That Fries Up Brazilian Salgados

M. Ladd

Coxinha are filled with chicken, cream cheese, and olives.

​If the breakfast options at Toast and Chloe's leave you pining for something more original, send your taste buds south. Last month, Twin Peaks Pizza & Pasta began serving the Brazilian pastries known as salgados. Think savory, with meat and cheese being the central components. Salgado service begins at 8 a.m., and runs until 3 p.m., Mon.-Sat. Twin Peaks Pizza has 18 seats, perfect for looking out onto passing J trains and the occasional pedestrian.

M. Ladd

Salgado maker Marcio Espagna.

​Marcio Espagna makes and serves the salgados most mornings (walk-in traffic starts to pile up around 10 a.m. or so). One day earlier this week, Espagna had 10 types of freshly fried salgados ready (prices start at $1.70 each). Hefty risoli de carne contain ground beef and corn, with chicken and hearts of palm listed as optional fillings. Lighter, smaller coxinha come filled with chicken, cream cheese, and green olives. There are fresh juices (cupuaçu, açaí, Barbados cherry, guava, etc.), smoothies, and coffee. On days the salgados are available, the shop is open till 3 p.m.; it closes from 3 to 4 p.m. so TPP&P can transition to a spot for carbs of a more conventional stripe.

Twin Peaks Pizza & Pasta 1681 Church (at 29th St.), 695-9200