SFoodie's 92: Ribs from Bruno's

J. Birdsall

Hipsters beware.

Number 63: Ribs from Bruno's

At this '90s neo-swinger lounge on Mission, chefs Katharine Zacher and Ryan Ostler serve up mostly Southern heartland eats so vivid they seem startlingly at odds with the room. So maybe hipsters don't gladly manhandle bones, and suffer their chins to get all shiny with pork residue. Except that, after one taste of Ostler's smoked ribs, and chances are they won't care. Smoked over hickory and applewood, the West Texas-style ribs show off a finely pebbled crust as dark as grade C maple syrup, with an aroma every bit as woody-sweet. The flesh is plush and stringy, and has enough flavor all on its own to make the accompanying barbecue sauce (not spicy, but subtly smoky) completely optional. Which is good news for things like cardigan sleeves, the potentially gunky hipster casualties of uninhibited eating ― something Zacher and Ostler have a way of inspiring.

Bruno's 2389 Mission (at 20th St.), 643-5200

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery