SFoodie's 92: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile

J. Birdsall

The "shortie" can spark king-size greed.

Number 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile

In locavore terms, Maine lobster in San Francisco is every bit as exotic as Dungeness in Bangor, but really: Despite its profusion of coral-red flesh, the lobster roll from the ChowderMobile is, at heart, an exercise in eating butter. Lewis Rossman, who oversees the mobile food truck, described how precooked, celery-flecked claw meat is warmed in butter, then piled onto a challah-like roll, which has undergone its own buttering (and toasting ― Rossman won't divulge his rolls' source, though he insists they're baked in the Bay Area). The result? Minerally sweetness of crustacean, serving as projection screen against which the effects of butter on toast play out. The taste makes you greedy, hunched outdoors on your bench amid the eerie shore wilderness along Terry Francois Street (where ChowderMobile has been showing up Fridays, roughly 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. ― it spends the rest of the week tooling around the Peninsula). And even though the "shortie" lobster roll just set you back $11 (the regular size costs $16), you start calculating whether you can afford a second, shiny fingers leafing through your wallet.

Sam's ChowderMobile 500 Terry Francois (at Mission Bay), (650) 712-0245; Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. ― check location updates on Twitter

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango