SFoodie's 92: Limón Cebiche from Limón

Limón cebiche: It's the tiger's milk that makes it so raawr.

​ Number 67: Limón Cebiche from Limón

Spanish-trained Peruvian chef Emmauel Piqueras indulges flights of fancy at Limón ― like the pargo rojo, a whole fish deep-fried into a curl to hold crispy sections of its own flesh. But it's Piqueras's mixed cebiche plate says just as much about his technique. He dispenses with the elements of the classic platter that befuddle North Americans the most ― the fried corn, the corn cob ― and keeps the essentials: silky rings of squid; folds of whitefish fillet, just beginning to firm up; sweet raw prawns; and the tangle of shaved red onions on top. The cebiche marinates for a spell in Limón's finely balanced "leche de tigre" ― lime juice deepened with garlic and a little cumin, perfumed with cilantro, and spiked with enough aji chile to buzz on the tongue. When the tiger's milk proves too piquant, there's respite at the edges of the plate: fat, shiny kernels of field corn and a creamy half-moon of sweet potato.

Limón Restaurant 524 Valencia (at 16th St.), 252-0918

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenkuche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu mai bani mi from Saigon Sandwich

No. 68: Crème Brûlée from Sweet.