SFoodie's 92: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling

Boiled lamb dumplings: Sexy isn't always photogenic.

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Number 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling

If there's a more inelegant-looking thing than a boiled dumpling, we haven't seen it. Even Frito pie and nachos have some color contrast, and oatmeal ... okay, oatmeal comes close. Order a couple dozen boiled jiaozi from this pocket restaurant on Taraval, whose name seems to promise regal fare, and your table will soon be covered with plates of grayish blobs of dough edged in rough frills. Not even a sprig of cilantro for garnish. Compared to the elegant twists and precise folds of dim sum, lamb jiaozi look like the potato jojos of the dumpling kingdom.

Dip one of those blobs in a thimble of sweetened black vinegar. When you bite, be sure to tip your head over the table, so you don't lose that spurt of rich, condensed lamb juices to your beard or sweater. The dumpling wrappers are just thick enough to have some chew to them, and thin enough that they don't take over for the taste of the meat. With its whiff of lanolin and earth, the finely ground lamb inside is hard to mistake for pork, but it's mild and larded with fat. Elegant from the inside out.

Kingdom of Dumpling 1713 Taraval (at 28th Ave.), 566-6143

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenkuche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy