SFoodie's 92: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung

M. Ladd

Worth the scrum.

Number 58: Dry-Fried Chicken Wings from San Tung

This Inner Sunset place is almost always bursting at the seams with lunch and dinner hopefuls, but gnawing and slurping San Tung's dry-fried chicken wings never fails to give us a calm and relaxed feeling. Crowds? We so don't care, licking our lips as we grab another clean napkin. The dumplings and noodles have a steady fan base, but if a table of husky dudes in construction garb on their lunch break are all chowing on wings and sucking their paws, you figure something tasty is going on there. Indeed, the wings' assertive blend of sweet-salty caramel, garlicky and spicy, is so irresistible, we rarely order anything else. Ginger notes linger, and the plate comes garnished with a handful of roasted red Sichuan peppers ― order them mild if you can't stand the heat, and if you'd rather have your wings sans bones, order the diced version ― leave it for others decide if that constitutes wimping out. And if the crowds seem daunting, get the wings to go and devour in the quiet of your car.

San Tung 1031 Irving (at 11th Ave.), 242-0828 and 242-0837; closed Weds.

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms
No. 60: Pozole from Chilango
No. 59: Lobster Roll from Sam's ChowderMobile