Like a Super Burrito, Last Night's Papalote Throwdown Was Hard to Finish

Categories: Food on TV

Papalote owners Miguel (left) and Victor Escobedo.
​San Francisco abhors a vacuousness. Which is why we watched with skepticism last night's S.F. episode of Throwdown, the Food Network show in which bland, amiable Bobby Flay fake-bumrushes a city to challenge a chef re some local specialty.
Bobby Flay: Amiable, but duh.
The home crowd was cheerleader-chirpy as Flay busted out an all-green burrito (chile verde, green rice, guac, and super-lame white beans in apple-green vinaigrette, all loosely bracketed in dried-out-looking tortillas) to chest-bump with Papalote's Triple Threat (shrimp, carne asada, chicken). Papalote broes Miguel and Victor Escobedo were as cute as Cheech Marin-squared, but the contest at Mission Cultural Center for Latino Arts was an exercise in anti-suspense: It was clear from the start that the Triple Threat would prevail. As Flay himself moralized at Throwdown's end: "Don't try to do some newfangled burrito when you're in the Mission District of San Francisco." We surrendered 30 minutes of consciousness to glean that?

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