SFoodie's 92: Pozole from Chilango

C. Alburger

Everyday party.

Number 60: Pozole from Chilango

In Mexico City, the rich tomato-based hominy and meat soup known as pozole is a dish of celebration, usually served to hungry partiers on birthdays or religious holidays. At Chilango, you can get it every day for lunch or dinner. Chef Roberto Aguiar Cruz grew up around his mother's cenaduria (supper joint) in the Mexican state of Nayarit, eating tacos, flautas, and tortas similar to those he oversees at Chilango. The chef makes pozole from a broth built on chicken bones, with tomatoes, roasted guajillo chiles, onions, and hominy, with breast meat from organic, hormone-free chickens added at the very end of the simmering process. Before serving, the kitchen tops the soup with finely shredded cabbage, onions, and radishes, a brilliant pile that brings crunch and a beguiling sort of bitterness to the rich, spicy broth with a bright gloss of acidity. The accompanying chips are made in house from organic masa with chopped cactus ground in, yielding a bite with remarkable lightness. Hominy, shredded chicken, and a translucent vermilion broth: in our opinion, reason enough for impromptu celebration ― even if you keep it to yourself, and your birthday isn't till August.

Chilango 235 Church (at Market), 552-5700

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenküche
No. 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
No. 76: Chicharrones from 4505 Meats
No. 75: Langka Ice Cream from Mitchell's
No. 74: Bacon Potato Chips from Who's Your Daddy
No. 73: Lamb Dumplings from Kingdom of Dumpling
No. 72: Chile-Braised Carnitas Sandwich from Bento 415
No. 71: Chili from Mission Burger
No. 70: Croissants from La Farine
No. 69: Xiu Mai Banh Mi from Saigon Sandwich
No. 68: Creme Brulee from Sweet.
No. 67: Limon Cebiche from Limon
No. 66: Chicken and Waffles from Brown Sugar Kitchen
No. 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery
No. 64: Turkish Salad from Old Jerusalem
No. 63: Ribs from Bruno's
No. 62: Prupisceddu in Umidu (Stewed Octopus) from La Ciccia
No. 61: Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky from Marin Sun Farms