A Cuban Sandwich Worth Lifting the Ban For: Your SFoodie Lunch Planner

Categories: Morning Buzz

J. Birdsall
The roll makes all the difference.
Weds., Feb. 3, 2010

Your average pan cubano? A lardy-tasting slice of pork roast, bracketed with ham and Swiss in a bready roll. At Ironside, chef Bob Cina takes the Cuban sandwich to the border of ethereal. Mostly it's the airy roll, compressed on the griddle into a crisp sheath for super-thin slices of ham and pork, pickles, Gruyère, and aïoli with the smoky-sweet burr of pimentón. So good we're tempted to lift our self-imposed ban on the cubano and order a second -- if only we wouldn't have to file back into Ironside's punishing lunchtime line.

Ironside 680A Second St. (at Townsend), 896-1127

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