SFoodie's 92: Tamales from All-Star

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Number 86: Tamales from All-Star

For years, All-Star Tamales has been the other reason most of us shop the Alemany Farmers' Market, the half-meal that gives a bleary man the clarity to distinguish between eight choy sum vendors and the fortitude to haul the bushel of fruits and vegetables he invariably collects back to the car. Wrapped in Pittsburg, steamed, and kept hot in insulated boxes deep enough to hold a preschooler, All-Star tamales come in 14 flavors, from roasted pasillas and cheese to Oaxacan chicken mole. We like best the red mole owner Linda Quintana braises chicken or beef with, with the hint of sweetness to the spice paste, and the classic red pork tamale, shredded pork coated in a mild red chile sauce. What makes the tamales so good is the masa. Even though it's lard-free, the masa is never dry -- the texture is always the perfect midpoint between that of a tres leches cake and a bowl of polenta.

All-Star Tamales, (925) 252-1097, allstartamales.com. Appearing at the Alemany Farmers' Market Saturdays, 7a.m.-2p.m.; the Heart of the City (Civic Center) farmers' market Wednesdays, 7a.m.-2p.m.; and the Old Oakland farmers' market Fridays, 7a.m.-2p.m.

Hungry for more? A few dishes from our countdown thus far:
No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 88: Porchetta Sandwich from Il Cane Russo
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante