SFoodie's 92: Porchetta Sandwich from Il Cane Rosso
As a windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here, a different one each day. Tweet your own nominations ― extra points for pics ― to @SFoodie.
J. Birdsall
Number 88: Spit-Roasted Porchetta Sandwich from Il Cane Rosso
In San Francisco last year, porchetta became almost as commonplace in a certain class of restaurants as the Caesar salad. And while very good adaptations of the traditional Tuscan pig roast appear all over town, no one does it with quite the finesse or intelligence you find at Daniel Patterson and Lauren Kiino's casual lunch and supper place. Chef Doug Borkowski (like Kiino, a veteran of Delfina) seasons pastured pork with a mix of orange, fennel seed, chile flakes, garlic, herbs, and lots of salt before spit-roasting. What ends up on the sandwich changes with the seasons: plum mostarda in summer; pickled cabbage and house-made Dijon in winter. Some of the subtlety of the pinkish, lushly fat-laced pork might wilt under the mustard's hot blast, but crisp shards of blistery pork skin ― the textural equivalent of potato chips in a baloney sandwich ― more than make up.
Il Cane Rosso One Ferry Building (at Embarcadero), 391-7599; daytimes only
See also:
No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
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