SFoodie's 92: Lasagna from Zuppa
As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.
J. Birdsall
Number 77: Lasagna from Zuppa
Zuppa is one of those all-but-invisible places you're surprised still exists. And the first few times we rediscovered the place, Zuppa's off-menu lasagna was quite literally invisible. But there it was, a half-hotel pan keeping warm at the cool end of the charcoal grill.
Lasagna here is the antithesis of the prefab article we all knew growing up: house-made pasta sheets, stacked with the restaurant's house-made mozzarella, and chef Liam Bonner's pork ragu, thick with ground Berkshire pork and fennel-shaded sausage. It shows up as variations on a theme. One day it was a homely pile of sauce-covered noodles; on another, a neat stack of squares thinly spread with a béchamel that ― in the blast of the wood-burning pizza oven ― turned as dark and leathery as a scab. Both were fantastic.
Keep in mind that lasagna's a lunch-only dish here, and cheap ($8). And Bonner says that, starting Monday, it'll show up on the menu. If you don't see it? Ask.
Zuppa 564 Fourth St. (at Freelon), 777-5900
Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:
No. 92: Cracked Half Dungeness from Swan Oyster Depot
No. 91: Pastrami Sandwich from Orson
No. 90: Coconut Bun from Out the Door on Bush
No. 89: Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Biscuits from Little Skillet
No. 87: Indian Pizza from Zante
No. 86: Tamales from All-Star
No. 85: Chilaquiles from Nopalito
No. 84: Poc Chuc from Poc-Chuc
No. 83: Chocolate Beignet from Arlequin Cafe
No. 82: Scallop Crêpe from Ti Couz
No. 81: Gin and Tonic from Pizzaiolo/Boot and Shoe Service
No. 80: Quesadilla from Rico Pan
No. 79: Turkey Kati Rolls from Kasa
No. 78: Emperor's Pancake from Suppenkuche
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