Opening Today for Lunch: Barbacco, Perbacco's Casual Cousin

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​Think of it as vertical integration, only with the black-pepper whiff of salame. Today Perbacco (230 California at Front) launches spinoff Barbacco, a casual lunch and dinner place essentially right next door at 220 California, the old Rado's Deli space. GM and co-owner Umberto Gibin told us that ever since Perbacco opened in 2006, he and chef Staffan Terje had wanted to open a place as Dockers-friendly as Perbacco is Armani suit-friendly. "We saw there were a lot of customers who didn't want to spend the money to go to Perbacco," Gibin said, "so we wanted to give them something a little more casual."

Overseen by longtime Perbacco sous chef Sarah Burchard, Barbacco's menu skews heavily sandwich and baked pasta, with entrée prices less than $12 for takeout, under $15 for sit-down. Expect mini communal tables for six, plus counter seating for solos and deuces and a large takeaway component.

And while for the foreseeable future anyway, Barbacco will open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. only, dinner will start whenver the liquor license arrives. In fact, Gibin and Jerje are calling Barbacco an eno-trattoria, referring to the extensive wine offerings it's planning, with an emphasis on biodynamic Italian producers.


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