Checking Back In at the Broken Record
So one foggy night last week, a friend and I stopped by for sandwiches and pints of Trumer (Side note: God, is it good to be able to drink the pilsner on draft again, when it tastes like a bouquet garni has steeped in the brew). The sausages and Texas toast Moisey talked up to SFoodie weren't there ― that's normal, says bar owner Jason King, since they rotate the menu every season ― but it also seems like the menu, and its ambitions, have been stripped back down since July. We ate a bowl of farfalle and cheese, and it had none of the opulence of Zacher and Ostler's current version; a pulled-pork sandwich with radishes and slaw was decent but not memorable.
But Moisey's serving a destination burger. Not only does he toast high, light brioche rolls on the griddle so they crisp up and develop a sort of inverse tonsure, a neat round brown mark, the chef adds whole chunks of bacon into the beef when he grinds the meat. The fat keeps the patty juice-laden and a bit smoky. If that's not enough bacon for you, you can get bacon on the mac 'n' cheese too, with another side of bacon fries.