Bernal's Sandbox Bakery Hopes to Revive the Homely Pig in a Blanket
S.F.'s slow-to-arrive Sandbox Bakery opened this morning at 833 Cortland (at Gates) to a snarl of Bernal Heights residents crushing for ginger scones and Valrhona croissants. Neighbors will have to wait a bit longer for the diminutive bakery to launch soups and sandwiches. In the meantime, owner Mutsumi Takehara (a former Slanted Door pastry chef), just might succeed in reviving interest in that staple of trailer-trash cuisine, the pig in a blanket. Only instead of Bisquick and canned Vienna sausage, Takehara uses soft, buttery brioche to sheath a Niman Ranch wiener. It's classic Takehara: pristine technique yielding results that quietly impress -- even as it makes you crave a big old squirt of French's.
J. Birdsall Sandbox Bakery's brioche-wrapped pig, next to a savory scallion scone.