Soon-to-Drop McSweeney's Skews Foodie with Chang, Farr, Roadkill
We're so excited about the upcoming star-studded 33rd issue of McSweeney's -- a.k.a. The San Francisco Panorama ($16), an esoteric, 320-page riff on the newspaper form -- mainly because roughly 5 percent of those pages will address food, with no shortage of topical local interest. L. E. Leone savors roadkill. Ryan Farr goes all Wolverine on a lamb carcass. New York-based Momofuku kingpin David Chang -- an unfortunate source of relatively recent controversy around these parts -- teams up with writer pal Peter Meehan on a sumptuous full-color visual guide to making the perfect bowl of ramen. It's at least as useful as that two-page spread on 20th-century public intellectuals The Believer distributed maybe six years ago - with helpful connectors drawn between family members and like thinkers.
McSweeney's Chang stuffs something in his mouth besides his kitchen clog.
Conscious of the time and patience constraints many well-intentioned home cooks face, Meehan and Chang demonstrate -- with good humor and extensive annotations -- how to make decent ramen, how to make good ramen, and finally, for thrill-seekers, how to craft transcendent ramen. (Hint: Your chicken will require some "friends.") If you'd rather read than cook, the piece includes recommendations for establishments where an excellent bowl of ramen might be found, including, locally, O Izakaya and Katana-Ya.
The Panorama is due to drop Dec. 8.