Doggy Bag: Reading the Future in a Bag of Pork Skins
Going too Farr: Mission Loc@l's Kate Kilpatrick probes chicharrones both Bi-Rite and ghetto, sampling swine skin from sources as diverse as 4505 Meats and La Gallinita. Her guides? Papalote's Victor Escobedo and David Lew. Here's their take on a bag of Ryan Farr's 4505 Meats' version they score from Ritual:
They're not holding up with Escobedo and Lew. Lew's assessment is less forgiving than Escobedo's. His face reeks of letdown. "That's an abortion of a chicharron. It's not even crispy. It's soggy-crispy," he vents, then turns to face Ritual's storefront. "You ritually butcher chicharrones, that's what you do!"Kilpatrick's quest for crispity transcendence is really a chance to express skepticism about the gentrification of el barrio. Again, it's Farr's chicharrones that seem emblematic of the Mission's morphing:
Folks here that have lived here for a long time and who are primarily Latino look at that like, 'That's way overpriced,'" says Roberto Hernandez, 53, a neighborhood fixture who says he's noticed the trend "of all these overpriced Latin foods" ever since Ramblas, a Spanish tapas restaurant, opened near 16th and Valencia eight years ago. "But then folks who have never eaten that before will pay for it because it's new and different," he says. "It's like rediscovering Latinos but on an upscale level."But then, philosophical as you wanna get about cultural shifts, there's always the chicharron clot to bring you back to the moment.