San Francisco Food Blog

Beer and Rap/Flickr

Los Jarritos' version: Hipster insulation.

​Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Chill killers: At Bay Area Bites, Andrew Simmons risks serious bloating on a chilaquiles crawl through the Mission. Simmons:

The other weekend, hungover and exhausted from a morning of pick-up basketball, I was looking for comfort in sustenance. I found it easily, several thousand calories' worth: two distinct and excellent versions of chilaquiles served up at two very different Mission District establishments.

He shows up at Los Jarritos. Pastores, too. The takeaway?

Sometimes, the homiest dishes -- foods without pretense or artifice -- are most revealing about the cultures from which they spring, and inspire the most debate amongst their devotees. However, from countless regional Mexican renditions -- like white sauces in Sinaloa and Guadalajara's polenta-like cazuela cook-downs -- to American adaptations that echo Tex-Mex migas, all chilaquiles aim to soothe -- regardless of a particular variation's provenance and claims to authenticity.

There you have it. Those masses of sauce-absorbing fried tortilla, eggs, cheese, and crema are little more than ingestible Snuggies. With a touch of Chaser.