City of Burgers: Fish & Farm Serves Up a Juicy Dilemma

M. Brody
The lunchtime Juicy Lucy: Half the protein, pretty much all the flavor.
Fish & Farm offers you a lady-or-the-tiger choice: Do you want to spring $8 at lunch for the takeaway Juicy Lucy -- two 2-ounce Niman Ranch burger patties sealed around a core of American cheese -- or $14 at dinner for the 7- to 8-ounce Niman Ranch cheeseburger, covered with melted white cheddar?

Otherwise the burgers are, as a hostess told us, close cousins. The same grilled onions, house-made pickles, secret sauce, and toasted Acme bun. At lunch, the burger comes with fresh potato salad, and you can get it to go or perch at a table in the Fish & Farm dining room (sans servers), part of the restaurant's American Box lunch service. At dinner, there are fries on the plate, you can add Hobbs bacon or a fried farm egg for an extra two bucks, wash it down with a cocktail, wine, or beer, and command anything else you'd like from Fish & Farm's menu -- maybe six oysters on the half shell ($15), mac 'n' cheese with ham hocks ($6), or a chocolate peanut butter mousse ($9) that comes with chocolate ice cream, salted caramel sauce, and peanut brittle.

​Having sampled both day and night burgers, SFoodie knows they're juicy indeed. The lunch version goes down a soft and succulent treat; but if you want a charred crust, you're better off with the bigger, nighttime version (and ask for it that way -- blackened). The choice is yours.

Fish & Farm 339 Taylor (at O'Farrell), 474-3474. American Box lunch takeway: Mon-Fri, 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Dinner: Tue-Wed, 5-10 p.m.; Thu-Sat, 5-11 p.m. Closed Sun-Mon.

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