Doggy Bag: Today's Odds and Ends
Our favorite morsel from the food blogs.![]()
More ghetto than gourmet: Like a hotel guest pressing a minibar glass to the wall to catch the shouting, Eater listens in on a most uncivil exchange regarding Alice Waters' 2007 authorized bio, Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, by Thomas McNamee. Turns out blogger The Gurgling Cod thinks McNamee soft-balled the lady behind the Delicious Revolution, and as a result, gives us "Alice" (the smilingly aloof cipher) rather than Waters herself, warts, alleged excesses, inability to bring her own teensy family around the table (while lecturing all of America to do so), and all. (Well, the book was made with Alice's active participation.) Here's Cod:
Ultimately, the fawning approach of this book does its subject a disservice. It would be hard to name a single restaurant more significant to the history of 20th century American dining, and Water's endurance through a variety of roles and contexts is remarkable. By giving us the icon, rather than an individual, MacNamee [sic] relegates Waters's very real achievements to the realm of mythology.An arguable point -- one that McNamee slaps down like an interstate trucker with a meth-stoked case of road rage: "Let me say it again in case you didn't get it the first time, since you apparently have a hard time understanding English, and I'll put it simply enough for you to understand: You are a fucking idiot." Ahem -- may we submit our own take on McNamee's bio (it's from the East Bay Express, 3/21/07), which is remarkably similar to The Gurgling Cod's?
Um, Thomas? Would you mind adding "sir" to the part where you call us a fucking idiot? Classier that way.





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