On Eve of Opening, Bocanova Chef Buzzing About Pan-American Concept

CUESA

Rick Hackett: Making an ambitious leap to Oakland.

​After working for well over two years on his soon-to-launch dream restaurant with wife and partner Meredith Melville -- the first that's wholly their own, after years of working at Chez Panisse, Postrio, Bay Wolf, Oliveto, and, for the past six years, at MarketBar -- it's no wonder that Rick Hackett has a lot to say about Bocanova (55 Webster at First St., Oakland). The ambitious restaurant in Jack London Square (the name means new mouth) is due to open September 1st.

Hackett and Melville, who live in Oakland, looked at various East Bay sites before settling on JLS. "We're going in to what used to be an ice warehouse, built in 1926, with almost 22-foot ceilings," he told us. As for the food, expect vivid flavors from both poles of the hemisphere. "We're calling it a Pan-American kitchen. We want to draw from South American, Central American, Mexican, and also North American food and techniques. We're not trying to be strictly authentic, but always delicious."

Hackett is especially enthusiastic about the local and sustainable ingredients he and Melville have sourced. "We've got local farmers planting special varieties of peppers, chilies, potatoes, and some heirloom beans for us," he said. "And culantro, which is like cilantro but a little heartier." Hackett is expecting big things from the food-hall slated to launch in the Square next June. "We're getting grass-fed beef finished for six weeks on grain from the butcher that will be moving in there, and his organic air-chilled chicken, which is the best I've ever tasted. Rabbit, too."

Hackett's taking a risk. Not only is Bocanova's menu sprawling, he'll continue to oversee the kitchen at MarketBar, where critics (this one included) have found the food to be solid if not always stellar.

M. Brody

Bocanova-bound: Hackett's ceviche, shown here at a recent Ferry Building event.

​Bocanova's open kitchen features an Argentine-style grill. Besides beef, the kitchen will grill up sweetbreads and sausages including blood sausage, all made in house. There'll be rotisserie meats, an oven for long-braised stews with heirloom beans, a raw bar and cevicheria. When we complimented him on a spicy wild shrimp and zucchini ceviche we sampled recently at the Ferry Building, Hackett told us it'd be on the Boccanova menu.

The design of the 6,500-square-foot restaurant takes full advantage of the soaring warehouse space and its bay view. A patio seats almost 100, with indoor seating for about 75, including four communal tables and a counter. And there's a bar and more casual seating for 60. The décor is colorful, a contemporary design using rustic ingredients such as reclaimed barn wood from Oregon, a recycled rubber floor in the kitchen, and stained concrete countertops fabricated by an Oakland company. Seven contemporary tribal area rugs were hand-woven for the restaurant.

The Bocanova chefs are still in the weeds, what with last-minute construction and tastings, but as opening day looms, Hackett seems more excited than nervous, especially when he talks about the food. It's an excitement that's pretty much infectious.