Departed Aqua Chef Expresses Sadness Over What He Calls Disputed Owners' Greed
Four days after announcing he'd cut all ties with Aqua, chef Laurent Manrique told SFoodie he was looking forward to taking some time off, even as he felt lingering sadness about the restaurant he helped garner consecutive Michelin double stars.![]()
"It's a sad story," Manrique said by phone, reflecting on the fine-dining restaurant where he'd been executive chef for seven years. "It's such a beautiful place, and unfortunately, it is an example of what greed can make people do. That's the only word than can come out -- greed."
In a press release made public late Thursday, Manrique cited the three-year legal battle over ownership by survivors of Charles Condy. The former Aqua owner died in 2006, leaving his widow Mary and their three children to squabble over who owned the FiDi restaurant. "In the end, it's just a restaurant," Manrique said. "And the fact that they couldn't make up their mind about what should be done with it, that's why this restaurant is done. They created a loss, completely. They have to realize that there's not a fortune to be made from one restaurant." Aqua remains open, the kitchen led by ex-chef de cuisine Jason Pringle.
Since the legal squabble began, many of Aqua's day-to-day operations were difficult. "I couldn't even buy a new product and sign a new credit application for a new vendor," the chef said. "After three years of legal battles, all the profits the restaurant was making were going to legal fees. That can drain a restaurant." Manrique expressed gratitude for Aqua's staff -- both front- and back-of-house -- who stuck it out during difficult times.
Manrique, who lives in Mill Valley, is still owner and chef of both Cafe de la Presse (352 Grant at Bush) and the adjacent Rouge et Blanc wine bar. He told SFoodie that, for the moment anyway, he was looking forward to long walks on the beach.

























