City of Burgers: The Lasker Burger at Baby Blues B-B-Q

Janine Kahn
When there are excellent pork ribs, baby back ribs, pulled pork, and brisket on the menu, a burger might be the last thing on your mind. But if you're in a burger mood, head to Baby Blues for the superb Lasker ($8.95), a big, loosely-packed, 10-ounce beauty made of chuck ground with blue cheese and maple bacon. No one could tell us why it's named Lasker, but it hardly mattered: The added fat guaranteed a moist, tender interior under a hefty grilled crust. The patty comes on a floury roll that compresses around the juicy meat but still holds up.

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You get a hefty side of crunchy coleslaw, pickle spear, tomato, onion, and the very interesting house-made condiment made with what Baby Blues calls "lincolnberries" (we think they're lingonberries), which looks like ketchup but tastes like mustard. You're also free to slather it with one of several house barbecue sauces: ginger-Tabasco, regular mild, and the very hot Triple-X Porno. Show up for the lunch special (noon-4 p.m.), and you get one side chosen from a tempting list of 14, along with a soda, for $12.95. The (refillable) sweet tea in the pic above, with burger and mashed sweet potatoes, will cost you $1 extra.

Baby Blues B-B-Q 3149 Mission (at Powers), 896-4250.

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