Pop Review: Little Skillet, Farmer Brown's Street-Food Cousin

Categories: Pop Review, SOMA

Little Skillet 330 Ritch (near Townsend), 777-2777.
Street food? These days, anything you can snarf while seated on a curb is smokin' hot. That's why today, the third day Little Skillet has been open, the line snaked down alleyesque Ritch Street in far eastern SOMA. Think Farmer Brown: Same owners, grinding out neo-soul cooking through a takeout window. SFoodie's verdict? The waffle was more stiff than delicate, but the fried chicken next to it was juicy, ever-so-slightly pink at the thigh bone, and had crisp breading that stayed put. A pulled pork po' boy suffered from a too-thick bun, filled with a clump of soft meat fibers and vinegary slaw. House-made chips tasted as if the guy doing the frying was hoping he didn't have to change the oil, but, well -- he had to. Angel biscuits (the beaten kind) were nicely springy, but the best came last: a hefty, deliciously clammy red velvet cupcake iced with the most understated cream cheese icing you ever swiped a finger through. We predict Little Skillet (now open weekdays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.) will soon shine, once the new-kid-on-the-alley frenzy wears off. Though we doubt the line out front will ever shrink.

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