Leave Us Alone, Jonathan Gold, to Huddle Over Our Hefty Burritos
In a blog post at the Web site of our alt-weekly sis LA Weekly, food critic Jonathan Gold does the equivalent of grinding out a cigarette in the Bay Area's beloved burrito:
Comforting as a Snuggie
"Bay Area residents tend to have peculiar ideas about burritos, which they regard as monstrous things wrapped in tinfoil, and filled with what would seem to be the contents of an entire margarita-mill dinner, including grilled meat, rice, beans, guacamole, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream, orange cheese, and probably a lot of other things that neither God nor man ever intended to see the inside of a tortilla, much less the soggy steamed pup-tents that are but mandatory up north."
Gold goes on to champion the LA burrito, which he calls "lean" and "classic": beans, cheese, and a spoonful of what Gold calls stew, "if you want it." Far be it from us to throw shade on Gold's svelte ideal. And the Nicole Richie burrito he describes -- all stringy neck and pointy shoulder blades, sexed up with a spray tan -- no doubt goes down super-nice in Westwood. But here where summer means evenings tucked up in a Snuggie, we need our burritos to skew hefty, if only to neutralize the chill. Give us the craggy, black-edged hunks of carne asada from La Cumbre, insulated with creamy-textured pot beans and a healthy handful of shredded Chihuahua cheese - makes you feel warm all over. And for $6.24 (the cost of a regular burrito at La C), you end up fuller than you thought you could ever be, AND you take home a leftover, foil-wrapped nub the size of a child's fist to eat next morning.
Keep your distance down I5, Mr. Gold, happily nibbling your exquisitely delicate little roll-ups. If you've never had to cobble together the rent in the gray, drippy Sunset, you couldn't possibly understand our inextinguishable passion for cheap and bulky.
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