Early Bird Special: Nopalito
February's launch of Nopalito, the regional Mexican spin-off of Laurence Jossel's swarming Nopa, was the city's most fervently-awaited restaurant event so far this year (just sayin', Michael Mina). SF Weekly food critic Meredith Brody braved the crowds to sample fungus antojitos, sturgeon tacos, and stewed goat, and for the most part emerged smiling. Read the full review here. Itching for a spoiler? A tease follows the jump.
The best dish was the carnitas, a singularly succulent chunk of pork braised in beer seasoned with orange juice, bay leaves, and cinnamon and served in a little parchment bag, sided with a crunchy cabbage and shredded carrot salad, slices of house-pickled carrot and jalapeño, and steaming corn tortillas. I love carnitas -- it's my go-to dish, whether served as soft shreds or in crunchy fried dice -- but this was a splendid feast of pig I wanted to drag everybody I knew to Nopalito to savor.