Early Bird Special: Gary Danko

It had to happen -- SF Weekly food critic lost her virginity, and to a hunk of foie gras, no less. Brody experienced her gastro rite de passage at überluxe Gary Danko, which opened in 1999 and still has a way with a cheese cart. And in case you think a place not accustomed to skimping on the lobster and caviar has to be Prada-shoe fancy, think again.

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Jen Siska
Brody found casually dressed Texans at the bar, and waiters too well trained to get all sniffy when you pick up the wrong fork. Read the buttery details at www.sfweekly.com. Here's an appetite-whetting lagniappe:

In some famous temples of cuisine, the atmosphere can be a little stiff, even verging on pretentious -- something one can experience while enjoying otherwise wonderful meals at New York's Le Bernardin and Yountville's The French Laundry. Although after seeing Gary Danko giggle and charm his way through a couple of TV episodes of The Best Recipes in the World, you can infer that perhaps his restaurant would reflect some of that lightheartedness. Danko was even pictured in My Last Supper: 50 Great Chefs and Their Final Meals, lying around on gold lamé pillows at a staged orgy featuring a mountain of caviar and two voluptuous drag queens, also in gold lamé.

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