Review Update: Larkin Express

When we reviewed Larkin Express Deli in June 2007, it was a stereotypical, slightly divey, lunch-only Civic Center deli with a small selection of Burmese dishes buried in a menu devoted mostly to American standards such as roast beef sandwiches and turkey platters. Nevertheless, the kitchen set the local standard for such dishes as tea leaf salad and moh hinga.

Since then, the place has been remodeled to create a more restaurant-like atmosphere, expanded the Burmese section of the menu to 50 dishes, relegated the deli stuff to the back, and changed its name to Larkin Express Burmese Kitchen. Best of all, it's now open for (early) dinner on weekends.

The great food and low prices haven't changed. Tea leaf salad and moh hinga are still $5.50 each. Half a dozen new combo platters get you two or three items, rice, and tea for $5.50 to $8.50 ($1 more after 3:00 p.m.).

Larkin Express Burmese Kitchen (452 Larkin between Golden Gate & Turk, 474-5569) is open from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Visa and MasterCard accepted. No reservations. Restroom not wheelchair accessible. Parking: easy (one-hour meter limit). Muni: 5, 19, 31. Noise level: low.