Roll Play: Barracuda's Gangsta Roll

At Barracuda (2251 Market) in the Castro, the house music is bumping and the food has fun names. Case in point: The Gangsta Roll ($12.95), which hosts hamachi, cucumber and green onion on the inside and unagi, salmon, orange and black tobiko and unagi sauce on top, a harmonious blend of salty and sweet with the buttery texture of good, fresh fish. And unlike places that give in to the urge to make giant, overstuffed maki that are less than graceful to eat, Barracuda keeps it all in line.